My brother-in-law Tom, whose wife Millie died a year and a half ago, is visiting from Rockville, MD just days before his 74th birthday.
Twice every year for 41 years—on his birthday and on Father’s Day—Millie made Tom Creamed Chipped Beef. If I had known this, I might have phrased my question differently.
“Hey Tom, what’s your favorite dinner?” After all, a birthday boy should be able to choose.
“Creamed chipped beef.”
“Really? Um, what is that?”
“Well, I’ll show you. I’ve got the recipe in my wallet. Been carrying it around for years”. I’m not going to go into the reasons Tom’s been toting the recipe, scratched out onto a carefully folded little yellow sticky, everywhere he goes. Let’s just say that it is that important to him, and that maybe he wanted to be sure that no matter what—any time, any place—he would have it in the ready should a cook be willing.
I am a willing cook, but I have never had chipped beef nor seen it made. I can’t picture my Mom making anything with dehydrated beef and canned milk. And in my travels to rural diners and southern joints and roadside stands across America, I have somehow always overlooked chipped beef. I read Tom’s recipe, did a little research and some quick math.
The recipe comes from Tom’s grandmother, which means it dates back to World War II, when dairy and meat were scarce. Thus the canned rather then fresh milk, margarine instead of butter, and “dried beef”. The dried beef I bought (Hormel, a national brand), is sold in jars next to the Vienna Sausage and Spam. It is shaped like bologna, but is a darker brick red and much drier (though not as dry or greasy as salami). The slices are laid on top of each other and rolled, tube-like, to fit in the jar. It is highly processed and very, very salty (which is why rinsing it thoroughly is important).
It took me two tries to get it exactly right. On the first attempt I thought it was the most vial thing I’d ever tasted, but after the second batch, I understood why this could be a meat-eaters ultimate comfort food. It’s creamy and beefy and soft, and it soaks into the buttered toast on which it is served. This nice Jewish girl from Connecticut will even admit: it’s pretty darn good. And I’ll make it for Tom anytime, birthday or not, because anyone who carries around a recipe in their wallet with the eternal hope he’ll find a willing cook– well, he deserves it.
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Creamed Chipped Beef
1 2.5 ounce jar dried beef
2 tablespoons margarine or unsalted butter
1 tablespoon cornstarch
8 ounces canned evaporated milk
white pepper to taste
2 slices white bread, toasted and buttered (with 1 teaspoon of butter)
1. Remove the beef from the jar but keep it rolled up. Slice the roll across into 1/4-wide strips. Place the beef in a strainer and run under cold water, tossing the meat until thoroughly rinsed. Pat dry.
2. Melt the margarine or butter (I used butter) in a skillet over medium heat. Add the cornstarch and stir until smooth. Add evaporated milk and beef and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is slightly thicker than heavy cream, about 5-6 minutes. Stir in the pepper spoon over the toast.
Makes 1 large serving
Nutritional analysis per serving: 843 calories, 40 g protein, 61 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 47 g fat, 31 g saturated fat, 3606 mg sodium
Note: The sodium is based on the un-rinsed measures; it may be closer to 2600 once rinsed– which is still more than an entire day’s worth).
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I am laughing so hard! My mother used to make that for my father all the time.
I think there is a real generational component to yearning for Creamed Chipped Beef. A lot of men who served in bygone years have especially fond (or horrific!) memories of it.
while you are at, how about Spam Misubi.
Well, Bruce, only if I go to Hawaii to see how it’s really made! 🙂
sweet post! Hope you are well
Thanks, Alison. Hope your back-to-school goes smoothly!
The photo says it all!
May not be the meal I’d choose, but I’ve certainly never seen a greater labor of love!
Glad to see Uncle Tom enjoying himself and his food!!! Miss him and Aunt MiMi very much!!
Melissa- I bet your Aunt Mimi is looking down, smiling with great pleasure to see she has a great niece on the way! So give your belly an extra little rub tonight, and make it from her.
What a tribute to my wife’s loving, twice a year, 43 year concession to my “gross” culinary addiction! Thanks for making me another supurb, enjoyable and memory filled serving. YUM, YUM!!
It was my great pleasure! XOXOXO
A meal fabulous enough to quiet Tom 😉
Now I know why one and ALL love you so very much..me 1st on the list !!!
Happy birthday, Tom. Really enjoyed this post!
I had never tried nor researched what Creamed Chipped Beef was, if I ever saw it. But this actually looks really good to me…the ingredients scare me, but it LOOKS really good 😉 May have to try making it. It’s a beautiful story and, might I mention, I carry a recipe with me at all times as well! It’s for my grandmother’s latkes which I enjoy making anytime. Thanks for this new, strange recipe!
Heather– If you ever wanted to– and I know there are some recipes we don’t want to share– but if this is not one of those, I would be honored to see your Grandmother’s latke recipe. Did she shred or grate? Use a lot of flour or a little? Onions? Carrots?
I love seeing the differences between families. Often, the differences have to do with where the grandparents are from, how much the recipe’s originator enjoyed time in the kitchen versus convenience (yes, even in the “olden days”!), and so many other personal and familial characteristics.
So if you are willing, feel free to share!And if it is privately held, so to speak, then I wish you many years of latke happiness.
Marge
All of the above, and I didn’t acknowledge the most important part of the recipe you carry– forgive me! From my heart, I know how important it is that you bring your grandmother and the memories of her latkes with you wherever you are.
I would be happy to share her recipe with you! It has been one of those recipes that I have always coveted and held too closely to share, but my grandmother would want it to be shared and enjoyed by everyone! I will email it over this week. BTW, we had a fabulous time earlier this month!
My Mom always made “S.O.S.” with Buddig beef (http://www.buddig.com/), a simple béchamel and plain toast. Guess I got the modernized version! I still make it a couple times a year, usually in the dead of winter when we could all use a hearty helping of comfort food.
Your story is awesome too. Bless you for lovin’ on others with food!
My husband also called this s.O.S.– and I had to ask him what that meant!
Funny, my only memory of ever seeing this was when we made it in Home Ec class when I was in junior high around 1980. My partner and I were so disgusted that we added a ton of white pepper — needless to say, we didn’t eat much, and I’ve avoided it since! I love your story though — brought tears to my eyes that you made Tom so happy!
Lynn, I love Tom more than I love chipped beef.