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Sometimes life bubbles up all around you, like the head of foam on a nice egg cream or cold beer. Lovely, unless your bubbles keep growing and you have to stand on tiptoes in the glass in order to keep your brain free and clear. And then you take your pen and gently poke each and every bubble, enjoying the nice little exhalation of joy they give as they enter the atmosphere where met deadlines and obligations gather.

Soon your arms grow weary and you wish you could take a nap, or at least sit down for an hour or two. But you can’t: you have knowingly engaged in a foamy bubble-popping marathon. And you are not a quitter, and you don’t miss your dates, so the only solution you can think of is to fuel yourself up for the race against the rising foam.

For this, you must consume soothing, endurance-inducing pasta, and it must taste like spring to remind you how breathtakingly lovely the magenta azaleas are; how luscious the sweet lilacs smell; how comical and cute the new born bunnies hopping through the grass look. Re-fueled and re-newed, you will thrive on your work but quietly count the days until your escape with your husband, the first trip for just the two of you in ever-so-long.

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Spinach and Pepita Pesto on Linguine

Many grocery stores now sell shelled pepita, aka pumpkin seeds, but you can substitute many other seeds and nuts, uncluding pine nuts, almonds, and even shelled sunflower seeds.

8 ounces linguine

1 10-ounce box frozen chopped spinach, thawed

1/3 cup shelled pepita (pumpkin seeds)

2 tablespoons lime juice

1/3 cup basil leaves

¼ cup cilantro leaves

½ teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup grated pecorino Romano

  1. Cook the pasta in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until al dente. When the pasta is cooked, scoop out ¼ cup of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta.
  2. Meanwhile, make the pesto: squeeze the spinach dry and place in a food processor along with the pepita, lime juice, basil, cilantro and salt; process until smooth. With the machine running, add the olive oil; process until it is fully incorporated. Stir in the reserved pasta cooking water.
  3. Scoop out ½ cup of the pesto; transfer to a freezer-proof container and freeze for up to 2 months.
  4. Toss the remaining sauce with the linguine and cheese. If pasta is not going to be served immediately, stir in 1 tablespoon of additional olive oil or water to loosen the sauce.

Makes 4 servings (with enough freezable pesto left for another 4 servings later)

Nutritional analysis for each serving: 350 calories, 14 g protein, 46 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 13 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 241 mg sodium

{ 7 comments }

We once believed following a low fat diet would make us healthier and thinner. People who ate diets nearly free of butter, bacon, olive oil and even avocados shrunk their waistlines and lowered their cholesterol. They were living, lithe proof it was true.

All kinds of recipes and foods were created around the belief that a low fat = dietary nirvana: the panacea that would make us healthier, stronger, more attractive and all around more perfect. We created brownies using pureed prune, white “cream” sauces made with gums and stabilizers and low fat cookies so intensely sweet you barely noticed the strange texture. We put up with the fake food in honor of our health. The food wasn’t satisfying, but one has to make sacrifices, right?

That was the 90s and we’ve gotten a lot smarter since then. We now know fat can be good, too much sodium is bad, we are all vitamin D deficient and gluten makes us feel bloated.

Gluten is the new food demon. At any given cocktail party, you hear conversations about how much better people feel now that they live gluten free. The tales of glorious weight loss and newly discovered vitality—especially coming from people who had previously consumed processed carbs with pleasure-induced abandon—make a lot of sense. For the many of us who love our pasta and bread too much, reducing* our gluten intake is probably a very good thing.

An entire industry has grown around gluten free versions of foods made with gluten. Sound familiar? In the grocery store baking aisle, you will find gluten free bread, cracker and crust mixes. Gluten replacement products are a fast-growing sector of food manufacturing. Any day now, our cereal aisles will sport gluten free fruit loops.

As we all jump on the GF bandwagon, might I suggest we learn from our past and approach these replacement products made with modified potato starch and xantham gum with some care and moderation? Perhaps replacing one set of highly processed foods with another is not a solution. Let’s stick with and enjoy foods that are naturally gluten free—there are thousands of them. Most, like the Quinoa with Kale below, are foods we would choose to eat for pleasure, not because of a dietary restriction.

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Quinoa with Kale and Sun Dried Tomatoes

The quinoa keeps well for 2 days in the refrigerator. To make a complete meal, toss in edamame or toasted pecans or other nuts or leftover cooked chicken.

1 cup quinoa

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 large shallots, chopped (about 1/2 cup)

1 red pepper, diced

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

8 ounces kale leaves (about 12 cups)

2 tablespoons chopped sun dried tomatoes packed in oil (about 8 pieces, or 1 ounce)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1. Bring 2 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan; stir in the quinoa, reduce heat to simmer, cover and cook 15 minutes or until the water is absorbed.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium high. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes. Add the red pepper and cook another 2 minutes. Stir in the sherry vinegar and kale (in batches, if necessary) and cook, tossing occasionally, until the kale is bright green and just tender, about 6 minutes.

3. Gently stir the sun dried tomatoes and salt in with the quinoa; toss with the kale mixture and the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes 6 servings

Nutrition per serving: 190 calories, 6 g protein, 26 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 7 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 225 mg sodium

* Obviously, anyone with Celiac disease should truly eliminate gluten (wheat, barley and rye) from her or his diet. Those of us who simply over-indulge or  have some sensitivity might benefit by cutting back.

{ 4 comments }

A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away… I was in Maui taking photos of rainbows. Oh wait—that was this past January. As in, two and a half months ago.

Shortly after that trip, inspired by a tasting at a roadside stand, I made mango bread. It’s like banana bread, but less cloying (not that I have anything against banana bread!) and more, well, tropical. The musky melon flavor of the mango really comes through—as does sweet coconut, which is tempered by aromatic cardamom, ginger and cinnamon.

I meant to share this recipe a long time ago, but then time warped and we were in a new galaxy and…well, you all know how that goes. At long last, here it is: this incredibly easy, gently spiced loaf cake. Hurry—make it now, before we enter a new dimension!

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Mango Bread

3 large mangos

2 large eggs

¾ cup canola oil

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon coconut extract

2 cups flour

½ cup cornmeal

½ cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 teaspoon ginger powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¾ teaspoon salt

½ cup shredded sweetened coconut

  1. Preheat oven to 350F. Coat a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan lightly with oil, sprinkle with flour and tap off the excess.
  2. Peel and chop two of the mangos into course pieces: puree in a blender, food processor or using an immersion blender. The puree should be the consistency of chunky apple sauce. Dice the third mango in ½-inch pieces.
  3. Lightly beat the eggs; whisk in the oil and extracts.
  4. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, cardamom, ginger powder, cinnamon and salt. Stir in the egg mixture until just combined. Stir in the mango and coconut. Transfer to the prepared pan; tap against the counter a couple of times to get rid of any air bubbles and bake in the center of the oven, turning the pan once, until a tester inserted in the center comes out with dry crumbs; about 55 minutes. Allow to cool at least 20 minutes before removing from the pan.

Makes 1 loaf

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I first heard about this very simple Passover dessert years ago. I believe Marcy Goldman, a wonderful baker, originated the idea, and since then hundreds of others have done their riffs on it—just as I am about to do.

David Lebovitz published his version (with complete attribution to Marcy, of course. David is always a gentleman.) I tell you this because when making a dessert for the first time I like to take a look at how David does it. (I think he has published a version of just about every dessert on the face of this earth—and he has the audacity to remain slim and fit while baking and living in Paris.)

Neither Marcy’s nor David’s versions call for Wellfleet Sea Salt, of course, because it had not yet been invented. And the truth is, you can make it with other course sea salts, but it would be far, far better to make it with my son Zak’s sea salt, which he harvests by hand. (And nearly died doing. Now, if that doesn’t motivate you to use his sea salt, then you are impervious to my very best Jewish-mother pressure and I just don’t know what to do with you.)

The problem I have with all the versions I saw has to do with this really strange thing about my Dad. He doesn’t like chocolate. And no, he is not an alien life form. He just doesn’t like chocolate. (I don’t like ice cream. So there.)

My father is coming over for a Seder Monday night, and of course I want him to enjoy a dessert, so I figured I’d make him butterscotch Matzo Brittle. My Dad loves butterscotch: I know, because when we were little I would climb on his lap when he got home from work, reach into his shirt pocket and pull out the roll of butterscotch lifesavers. He always let me have one, even if it was right before dinner, as long as I was quiet about it.

I also need to bring dessert to a friend’s house for the second night of Passover, and they all like chocolate. And I had this other idea for clusters I wanted to try out.

I had a matzo brittle fest here, testing and creating these three versions. Don’t ask me which I like best. In this way, matzo brittle is like my children– I love them all the same, but differently.

First, the classic: Chocolate Toffee Matzo Brittle, courtesy of Marcy Goldberg and David Lebovitz. (Their versions are a little more delicate, by the way. Mine is layered more thickly with the toffee and chocolate, and I use heftier dark brown sugar for more molasses flavor. Oh, and mine has the key ingredients of Wellfleet Sea Salt. Did I mention that? )

The printable recipe follows the photos. Then, after the recipe for the Chocolate and Butterscotch Toffee Matzo Brittles with Sea Salt, I will show you how to make the Chocolate Toffee Matzo Clusters with Sea Salt. It’s easy.

First, the brittle using whole and mostly whole matzos:

Line an 11 x 17 baking pan with parchment paper. Top the parchment paper completely with matzo. You will need to break a couple of pieces up to fit it all in.

Melt dark brown sugar and butter together and bring to a boil.

It begins to thicken…

It gets thicker and frothy and a little glossy…

Boil it, stirring,  until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan, which takes about 3 minutes. When it is ready, your spoon dragged across the the pan, will leave an open line like this:

Pour the dangerously hot sugar mixture on the matzo and work quickly to spread it evenly across the entire surface. (Dangerous because nothing burns as badly as boiling sugar. Be careful.)

Put it in a preheated 350F oven for 15 minutes. When you take it out, it will look baked on, and toffee-esque.

Immediately sprinkle with the 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups mini baking chips (you can also use the regular size ones, but minis spread faster.)  Butterscotch chips are not available as mini’s, so you have to use the regular size.

Now wait a minute. The chips, whether they are chocolate or butterscotch, will become shiny. Here is a photo with some of the chips shiny and some dull. See the difference? You need to wait another few seconds until they are all shiny.

Once they are all shiny, spread them evenly across the surface of the matzos.

Butterscotch chips also have to get shiny before you spread them.

It looks nice to let a little of the toffee show through when you spread the butterscotch.

As soon as you spread the chips, sprinkle on the sea salt. Now set the brittle aside. When it is cool, put it in the refrigerator to set the topping.

And what you end up with is this:

And this:

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Chocolate or Butterscotch Toffee Matzo Brittle with Wellfleet Sea Salt

4 sheets matzo

1 1/2 cups unsalted butter, cut into bits

1 1/2 cups dark brown sugar

1 1/2 cups mini chocolate morsels (or butterscotch morsels)

1 1/2 teaspoons coarse sea salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Line an 11 x 17 baking sheet with parchment paper. Top the paper with a layer of the matzo, breaking them up to cover the entire surface.

2. Combine the butter and sugar in a saucepan and, stirring constantly, bring to a boil over medium high heat. Boil three minutes, continuing to stir, or until the mixture pulls away from the sides and turns a deep mahogany brown. Pour over the matzo and, working quickly, spread into an even layer.

3. Place in the oven for 15 minutes. The toffee will bubble, but keep it in the oven the full time, until it is baked into the matzo. Remove from oven and immediately sprinkle with the chips. Wait until they become shiny, which take about 1 minute; spread the chocolate or butterscotch in a nice, even layer over the toffee. Immediately sprinkle with the salt. Allow to cool to room temperature and refrigerate to set the topping.

4. The chocolate toffee brittle may be cut into neat squares or broken into pieces; the butterscotch brittle may be broken into pieces. (It won’t cut into nice even pieces).

5. Keep in a cool, dry place until serving. (May be stored in the refrigerator and brought to room temperature before serving).

Now, here’s how to make clusters. Instead of using sheets of matzo, you will use farfel, which is just matzo that has been broken into bits about the size of your thumb nail. You can break matzo into the bits yourself, if you prefer.

Start by lining a baking sheet with parchment and preheating the oven to 350F, just like before. Melt the sugar and butter, bring to a boil for three minutes– and this is where it changes. Instead of pouring the mixture onto the farfel, you are going to stir 2 cups of farfel into the pot.

Spread the farfel onto the prepared baking sheet. You have to kind of karate chop it with the side of the spatula to get it to spread. Then sprinkle with the chips, just as you do for the flat matzos, and wait for the chips to get shiny before you spread them.

Sprinkle with salt, let the topping cool and set, and  break it into clusters. Here’s the recipe.

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Toffee Chocolate Matzo Clusters with Wellfleet Sea Salt

1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, cut in bits

1 1/2 cups dark brown sugar

2 cups matzo farfel

1 1/2 cups mini chocolate morsels

1 1/2 teaspoons coarse sea salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Line an 11 x 7 baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Combine the butter and sugar in a saucepan and, stirring constantly, bring to a boil over medium high heat. Boil three minutes, continuing to stir, or until the mixture pulls away from the sides and turns a deep mahogany brown. Stir in the farfel.

3. When the farfel is completely combined, spread it out on the prepared baking sheet. Bake in the oven 15 minutes.

4. Immediately pour the chips over the baked mixture. As soon as they become shiny, spread them as evenly as you can over the surface. Sprinkle with sea salt and let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate until the chocolate is completely set.

Mommy needs salt. (Don’t let this happen to you.)

Other posts and recipes you might be interested in:

Matzo Kugel with Artichokes

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls

Stovetop Brisket

Roast Spring Vegetables

Green Beans and Balsamic Glazed Onions

Pomegranate Poached Pears

{ 13 comments }

I hate when my kids call me from ambulances.

“Hi Mom. I’m okay but I’ve been in an accident and I am in an ambulance”.

Bad connection and all, I heard in the pitch of Zak’s voice that he was only a certain kind of okay. As in, he had all his body parts and could breathe, but something was very wrong.

It was a dark and stormy night. (Really.) Zak and his girlfriend Hope were driving from school to Cape Cod, where they planned to spend spring break building and moving barges for their company, Wellfleet Sea Salt. They lived on the Cape last summer and worked on the business full time; since then they have made the five-hour drive from school many weekends and school breaks as they grow the business. Last week, spring break, was an especially important one for them; they planned to build a third barge, find housing for when they graduate in May and more.

In the off-season when they go to the Cape, they stay at Hope’s parents’ house, which is on a small island. In order to get to the house, they time their journey carefully: the bridge to the island floods at high tide. Last Thursday, they timed their trip from Saratoga to the Cape so they would arrive 50 minutes before the tides came in.

As they headed across the tiny bridge in the pitch black, the winds were driving the rain sideways. Zak had trouble seeing the road: they inched across at 5 miles an hour. And then the road was gone. Gone. The car stalled out. Zak opened the door to give it a push, and his feet hit the water. He got in, slammed the door and called 911. The nose of the car was in the water, and ocean was starting to seep in. The storm was causing tidal surges, and the water was getting deeper.

They stayed on the phone with the dispatcher: the rescue workers were having a hard time getting to them by boat. Zak found a flashlight and left the fog lights on, but outside the ice cold storm water was up to the windows. Inside, the water had reached Zak’s waist; Hope managed to crouch up on the seat to keep her legs somewhat dry. (They also kept her pet rabbit, who was in his carrier, dry.) They couldn’t get out of the car—they’d be stepping into the 38-degree ocean.  They waited, trapped, for the rescue workers to get to them.

My boy, his girl and her rabbit were trapped in a car filling with painfully cold stormy ocean water. In the pitch black. I get a sickening flutter of terror and claustrophobia each time I think about it.

After 40 minutes, the rescue boats reached them. They were put in ambulances—Zak and the rabbit in one and Hope in the other—and EMTs brought their cold bodies, which had now been exposed to frigid ocean water for 40 minutes, back to a safe temperature.

Two of the crew of fourteen to seventeen emergency responders also ended up in the hospital. Captain Tom Ferreira and firefighter/paramedic Curtis Gelatt from Wellfleet Fire and Rescue got in the water in order to pull the kids from the car. In order to save Zak, Hope (and the rabbit!) they put themselves in danger.

I am not sure I have the names of everyone who helped save my son Zak, beautiful Hope and her bunny (who may or may not be wonderful: we haven’t met). But here are the names I do have– names of the men and women for whom I feel the kind of profound, worshipful gratitude a mother feels when her son’s life has been saved.

Please take a moment to read the names aloud and know you have spoken of heroes.

From Wellfleet Fire and Rescue:

Chief Richard Pauley, Captian Tom Ferreira, Lieutenant Shawn Clarke, Lieutenant Bill Grozier, Cherie Young, MaryLou Wood, Cutis Gelatt, Paul O’Neil

From Eastham Fire

Ryan VanBuskirk, Captain Albino, Chief Olson, Kyle Morse

Special thanks also to Theresa Townsend and Sergeant Brazile for their help sorting through the mess of the aftermath.

Oh, and that photo of the grilled cheese you saw at the beginning of this story? That is the first thing this Mom feeds her boy when she can feel him breathing and alive right next to her again.

How to Make a Perfect Grilled Cheese Sandwich

The key is cooking both sides of each piece of bread in the warm butter.

1. Melt a generous pat of butter in a small skillet over low heat.

2. Place a slice of whole grain bread in the skillet; when the underside is lightly golden, in about 2 minutes, remove the bread from the pan.

3. Place a second slice of whole grain bread in the skillet and when the underside is lightly golden (about 2 minutes), turn the bread over and top it with three layers of thinly sliced Kerrygold reserve cheddar.

4. Place the first slice of bread, golden buttery side facing down, on top of the cheese and press lightly. Cook until the underside of the sandwich is golden and toasted, then turn the sandwich over. (Before turning the bread over, if you feel there is not enough butter in the pan, remove the sandwich and melt another little pat of butter in the skillet. Return the sandwich to the skillet only once the additional butter is melted.) Press the top lightly with the spatula and again cook until the underside is golden and toasted and the cheese is oozy and melted.

5. Remove from the skillet with a large flat spatula; cut corner to corner to form two triangles.

Please note that I have done my best to list all the heroes who saved the kids’ (and bunny’s) lives on March 7th. If I have missed anyone or misspelled names, please know that it is not for lack of heartfelt appreciation.

Zak and Hope on the Cape last summer

{ 28 comments }

Ticks and Tarts

February 16, 2013

This is a long story that ends with a butter tart, but there are creepy crawly things in the middle. If you, like me, try to avoid little beasties at all times, scroll down past the story directly to the butter tart recipe right now.

It begins with camping, which is something my husband, who is from Queens, NY, does not do unless forced. I forced him. I won’t get into the whole long story behind that, because it would be exhausting to write and worse to read. But it was his birthday and we we were going to Minnesota to visit Nancy, my closest friend from childhood, and go to a Yankees-Twins game at the new stadium. That’s the good part. Nancy’s boyfriend had a campsite “up north” which, we were told, was quite plush for camping. Unsure of what “plush for camping” means, we headed up north the morning after the game.

I will go skydiving and I will kill and butcher a bull. Both those activities prove that, even by the highest standards, I am not a wimp. But I really don’t like bugs. And of all the bugs in the whole world, none terrify me quite as much as blood-sucking ticks.

Shortly after we arrived “up north”, as Ebo and I stood around the campfire, I saw several little black specks moving up my beloved’s legs. The way I let him know about this was not discreet, but I do not believe that when the woods are your bathroom you have any obligation to be discreet.

Moments later I felt a whisper of movement on my own legs. And then my arms. Soon, as though there was a tiny little breeze, I felt the hairs on my head move. It continued like that for hours, as I madly brushed, slapped and batted at myself and asked Ebo over and over and over to check my back again.

Apparently there was an unusual and aggressive infestation of ticks that arrived just as we did. My friend Nancy, to whom the ticks were magically oblivious, had never seen anything like it. All night long, I was on high alert for the telltale tickle on my skin—which appeared, it seemed, every few minutes. Eventually, it was time for bed. (I use the word ‘bed’ loosely). I lay awake all night in the tent, terrified the ticks would swarm all over our bodies and we would be buried alive in bugs.

I promise there is a really wonderful butter tart at the end of this, so please stay with me. Or again, feel free to scroll down to the recipe right now if you need to—I understand, really I do.

When we got back to Nancy’s house the next day, (house = floors and walls and other tick barriers) I showered in scalding hot water and found two more ticks on me. I screamed, but the ticks were not afraid. I pulled one off my shoulder and the other from my hip (my hip!) and refused to cry. (Because, remember, I am not a wimp). The following day, we made our way to the airport.  As I sat waiting for our flight, staring straight ahead trying very hard not to think about ticks, Ebo put his arm around me. (I should point out that this was his birthday celebration weekend, and he had spent most of it waging a war against ticks on both his body and mine, trying to help me through my quiet terror, and, well… camping.)  As his hand reached up to stroke my hair, he suddenly stopped, and I felt his fingertips tentatively explore the nape of my neck. I froze. In a falsely soothing, and thus truly alarming voice he said, “Babe, it’s okay, and you are going to be fine. But I think you have a tick imbedded in your scalp.”

I looked at him and said the only thing a woman in my position could say. “Please go find me some really good chocolate.”

He did, and then he very calmly and discreetly (because one should be discreet in an airport, where there are toilets that flush) pulled that sucker, limb by limb, out of my scalp. Right there, in the airport. I did not cry. I also did not speak for the entire flight home, although I twitched a lot.

The minute we landed I called my friend Amy. She is a nurse, and she would know what to do. As I explained the situation, she clearly heard something in my voice indicating it was dire. Right after we walked in from the airport, she and her husband arrived at our house. She brought me upstairs and told me to shower and then, as I sat on the floor in my white, fluffy bathrobe, she went through all the wet hair on my scalp, bit by bit, in a methodical nurse-like way. Finally she pronounced, with great authority, that I was completely free of ticks. I very nearly did cry then– with relief. But again, I am tough, so I did not actually let any tears escape.

Weeks later I learned that Amy and her husband had been out at dinner celebrating their anniversary when I called.

On Valentine’s Day this week, Amy had knee surgery. I texted her afterwards and asked her how she was doing and if she needed anything. “Am ok,” she wrote, in a drugged out haze. “Yes, please. Some butter tarts”.

Amy was raised in Rochester, New York by Canadian-born parents, which makes her truly loyal to the sport of curling and butter tarts. Until I met Amy, I’d never heard of either. And until today, I’d never tasted (nor even laid eyes upon, to the best of my knowledge) butter tarts. They are often described as being like pecan pies without the nuts, but they are more buttery than that. Amy likes hers with raisins; they come without as well, and some brave souls even put nuts in theirs.

Butter tarts are very, very sweet, and a little gooey and messy in that decadent-treat way. I think they would be wonderful topped with whipped cream or whipped crème fraiche, but Amy might consider that a sacrilege.  And when it comes to butter tarts, tick removal, and friendship, I’d say Amy is an expert.

Please note: If you are not interested in the recipe, you may want to scroll past it to see the card my friend Nancy sent me after adequate time had passed after the DOTT (Days of Tick Terror) and I was able to think about it without twitching.

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Butter Tarts

You can make your own dough or use pre-made refrigerated pie crust dough, such as Pillsbury, or frozen puff pastry dough or tartlet shells.

For the dough:

1 1/3 cups flour

2 teaspoons sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut in small bits

3 tablespoons cold vegetable shortening

1 teaspoon cider vinegar

3 ½ to 4 tablespoons ice water

For the filling:

1 egg

½ cup brown sugar

¼ cup butter, melted (half a stick)

¼ cup corn syrup

1 ½ teaspoons cider vinegar

½ teaspoon vanilla

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup plumped* currants or raisins, if desired

  1. Combine the flour, sugar and salt in a bowl. Cut the butter and shortening into the flour mixture using a pastry blender or two forks until the mixture is in course crumbs. Add the vinegar and 1 tablespoon of water. Stir, adding more water 1 tablespoon at a time until a loose dough forms. Knead the dough in the bowl once or twice to bring it together; press it into a 4-inch disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 1 hour.
  2. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter the bottom and sides of the cups in a 12-cup muffin pan.
  3. Dust your work surface and rolling pin lightly with flour and roll the dough into a circle that is 12-inches in diameter. Use a 3-inch biscuit cutter or jar lid to cut 12 circles out of the dough.
  4. In a medium bowl, lightly beat the egg. Beat in the brown sugar with an electric mixer. Add the butter, corn syrup, vinegar, vanilla and salt and beat until smooth.
  5. Roll the dough to a 12-inch circle. Use a 3-inch round biscuit cutter or a jar lid to cut 12 circles. Fit each circle into a muffin cup, pressing the bottom and side to fit snugly. Sprinkle the currants or raisins on the bottom of each tart crust. Spoon the filing over the fruit, filling the crust to the top. Bake until the filling is golden and bubbly, about 16 minutes.
  6. Let the tarts cool about 5 minutes before transferring to a plate. To remove then from the muffin cups, tilt them with a spatula and slip a butter knife underneath
  7. Serve the tarts warm or at room temperature. Tarts may be kept refrigerated for up to three days.

Makes 12 tarts

*To plump dried fruit, combine in a glass bowl with 2 teaspoons water and microwave 10 seconds. Test for softness and repeat as needed.

This is the card my friend Nancy sent me that made me realize I am not alone.

{ 21 comments }

Three Reminders To Cook Dal

February 8, 2013

Yesterday I carried a warm little piece of life around with me all day. It was just a private little bit of sweetness, tucked inside my blouse like a tiny glowing bauble. In the midst of work, it would snuggle up against me, reminding me of its presence, and for a moment I’d smile at the memory.  Then I’d be back, crashing through a project, racing to get it all done before I headed down to the James Beard House for a dinner cooked by Chef Daniel Doyle from the Charleston, South Carolina restaurant Poogan’s Porch.

At the dinner, I sat next to the restaurant’s publicist, and we began to talk about our travels. She told me a juicy story about an overnight camel trip in Morocco when she ended up a little too close to the Libyan border with too little potable water. I told her about travelling to India with my Dad and eating in a Sikh temple. As we spoke, that lovely little sweetness snuggled up against me again. I pictured my Dad’s big grin as we rode the elephants up to Amber Fort in Jaipur.

This morning I got a text from the daughter of a close friend, a young woman I adore, about the cotton thread bracelet (mauli) I tied around her wrist when I returned from India. On my last day in Delhi, I’d had mauli blessed at a shrine for Hanuman, the god who symbolizes strength and perseverance. This young lady had recently been through a difficult break-up and, she texted, at times “I would look down at my wrist and remind myself that I am strong and can get through this.” Sometimes we need a physical reminder of what lies within.

Her text made me think again about my private treasure from yesterday, a reminder of the sweet weeks I spent in India with my father.

One evening when we were in Agra, home to the Taj Mahal, my Dad and I wandered into a tent where the final night of the festival Durga Puja, a celebration of good over evil, had begun. We watched as women gathered around the chanting priest, reaching their fingertips into the torch he carried. We were captivated by the bells and the chanting; the magic of the smoke and dancing and beautifully painted idols draped in flowers and gold. And then a stately and elegant woman in a saffron-colored sari blew a shofar. A shofar! Yes, it was a shell, not a horn, and we were in a Hindu festival, not at a High Holy service in a Jewish synagogue.  Still…

I believe I must have gasped or giggled in surprise, and a young woman standing next to me began to explain the rituals. Soon we were talking, and talking some more. She told me about the ceremony, and we spoke about our work (she is a dentist) and her wine-colored sari. (We are, after all, girls.) And then Dad and I had to go; we had theater tickets. I didn’t want to leave, but Jaya urged us to come back after the show.

It was later than we expected when we returned, and I was worried that Jaya and her parents would have left. But then we spotted each other from across the tent, and Jaya greeted me like a long lost friend while her father brought mine a cup of aromatic sweet tea. The sari she wore that night was a gift from her fiancé, she said, squeezing my hand, and she felt it had brought her good fortune. After the spiritual rituals were over, we watched performances by local musicians, dancers, and school ensembles. Before the last song was sung, our fathers did what fathers do and had us pose together for pictures. When the night had stretched as late as it could, Jaya slipped a bracelet off her wrist and on to mine, telling me to remember her.

And so it is that three months later, she still remembers me, just as I still think of her. Here is the treasure tucked next to my heart yesterday

The first dish I cooked when I came home from India is this dal. And now I have been reminded thrice how much I loved the smell of it cooking, and the comfort and pleasure of its flavor.

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Red Lentil Dal with Spinach

Garam masala is a spice blend often found in the spice rack of your grocery store. If your store doesn’t carry it, increase the curry by another 1/4 teaspoon.

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 cup chopped onion

4 minced garlic cloves

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon curry

1/2 teaspoon garam masala

1/8 – 1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1 cup red lentils

5 cups water

2 teaspoons tomato paste

3/4 teaspoon salt

5 ounces baby spinach

1. Heat the oil in a soup pot over medium; add the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric, cumin, curry, garam masala, and cayenne and cook, stirring, 3 minutes until onion is slightly softened. Add the lentils and water; bring to a boil. Immediately reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 25 minutes, until lentils are nearly cooked through.

2. Stir in the tomato paste until dissolved, add the salt and cook another 5 minutes. Stir in the spinach and cook until wilted, about 2 minutes.

Makes 4 servings

Nutritional analysis for each serving: 342 calories, 15 g protein, 38 g carbohydrates, 10 g fiber, 5 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 509 mg sodium

These are a few photos from the Durga Puja. The pictures aren’t great– I was too busy talking to ask my Dad how to shoot in this red, red tent. You can see some of his far better photos from our trip in the story we wrote for Newsday, which is here.

Blowing the, um, shofar at Durga Puja is an honor. Jaya's mother is the woman on the right.

Chanting and dancing before the gods at Durga Puja

Jaya's beautiful mother

Praying before the Gods at Durga Puja

The priest prays to the gods at Durga Puja

My Dad's picture of me with my friend Jaya

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Because not everyone wants to stuff their face with chips and 5,000 calorie dip on Superbowl Sunday; and because the food should be in the spirit of the day– hearty and bold and necessitating at least three napkins per serving– and because whatever you make, it should be done mostly in advance so you don’t miss those great talk-of-twitter ads, I bring you a hefty but reasonable and very tasty muffaletta. Make it in less than twenty minutes today and serve it tomorrow.

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Muffaletta

A muffaleta is a sandwich of cold cuts and olive salad. Let the sandwich sit so the salad soaks into the bread and the flavors mingle.

2 2.5-ounce jars pitted green olives, drained and coarsely chopped (about 1 ¼ cups)

1 bottled roasted red pepper, chopped

1 tablespoon drained capers

½ teaspoon dried basil

2 tablespoons vinegar

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 12-ounce whole wheat baguette

1 ½ cups shredded iceberg or romaine lettuce

4 ounces low sodium sliced turkey

4 ounces low sodium sliced ham

4 ounces reduced fat thin sliced provolone

  1. In a small bowl, combine the olives, red pepper, capers, basil, vinegar and oil. Allow to sit 30 minutes.
  2. Split the baguette horizontally. Scoop out and discard the center of the bread. Drain the olive mixture and to brush all the cut, or inside, surfaces (both the top and bottom of the baguette) with the liquid. Place half the olive mixture on the bottom half of the bread; top with lettuce then turkey, ham and cheese. Spoon the remaining olive mixture over the cheese and close the sandwich. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or overnight.
  3. To serve, Place toothpicks every inch or so, and cut into 1-inch wide slices.

Makes 12 servings

Nutritional analysis for each serving: 179 calories, 10 g protein, 19 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 7 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 639 mg sodium

{ 3 comments }

Over the Rainbow

January 31, 2013

When my mother really, really liked something, she’d say it was “over the rainbow”. (If it was something she loved to eat, she would say “over the moon”.) I think she got the expression from the song “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” from the Wizard of Oz.

I want to tell you about something that puts me over the rainbow. Last November, I started a cooking program for ‘tweens at the Kips Bay Boys and Girls Club in the Bronx. Before I could actually teach, we had some pretty thorny logistics to work out.We didn’t have a real kitchen, and we didn’t have a stove or oven. We had no equipment– not a single skillet or spatula.

Some people are very, very good at the “Ask”. They may be fundraisers (professionally or personally) or sales people or a whole lot of other professions I am not. (Which is a good thing, because my kids and I would have starved if we depended on my halting, stammering Ask.) But all I had at Kips Bay was an empty room with a sink and some cabinets. If I wanted the program to work, I’d have to Ask for things. I emailed my friends at two companies, Anolon and Oxo to find out if they had any returned or obsolete equipment they would be willing to donate.

Within ten minutes my friend at Anolon told me she had brand new sets of pots and pans (the same ones I use at home!) she would send and wanted to know what else I needed. Shortly thereafter, Oxo told me to send a wish list. You know when something good happens and it feels like your insides just swell up and you get a big goofy smile and you want to hug all of humanity? Yeah, that’s how it was.

That was before I even met the kids.

I’ll get to them in a minute. Shortly after the program began, I got an email from a friend of mine, Beth Poole, who is the Executive Director of the Copper River Marketing Association in Alaska.  When we were in Cordova in the fall (cooking for the mushroom festival), we had brunch with one of the fishermen on the board of the organization, and he asked me all kinds of questions about the Kips Bay program. After the program began, they sent me an entire case of canned wild Copper River salmon. It turned out to be the kids’ second favorite class. (Their first favorite was when we made Christmas cookies. Nothing can compete with making cookies, even if they are no-bake cookies because you don’t have an oven.* The kids decorated take-out Chinese food containers with appliques donated by my good friend Vivien Siegel, filled them with the cookies , and gave them as gifts.)

Here’s the amazing thing about these kids. They are game for anything. Even when they were first learning to use 8-inch chef’s knives and went through a bunch of band-aids, they persevered. Even when we were cooking foods they were sure they wouldn’t like, they tried at least a little taste. They came to the class each week full of enthusiasm, curiousity and willingness to learn.

Sometimes, because they are between 11 and 13 years old, they also brought drama, goofiness, eye rolling, ants in their pants and a whole lot more. But then we would begin, and it all fell away. Over the weeks, their inner talents emerged. There is Danae, whose artistry made our food look so beautiful; Atalaya, the organized leader; Gian, our master mincer who hyper-focusses until the job is perfect; Nathalia, her quiet intellect soaking up the information; Dai’lynda, who happily volunteers to help with any and all tasks… the list goes on. Cooking helped their inherent talents blossom.

Last night we had our graduation class, the last of eight Level 1 classes. To celebrate, the kids made Peanut Noodles with Shrimp. Look at this dish– the kids cut and cooked every vegetable, made the sauce and sautéed the shrimp. (The only thing I did was cook the noodles in advance, and that was simply to save time).  They used an Oxo julienne peeler (a tool I love) to make the carrots and zucchini look so great, and cut the red pepper strips with their chef’s knives.

Here are some of the kids in their graduation toques.

I was just over the rainbow with pride and pleasure.

Below is my recipe for Peanut Noodles and Shrimp. (We changed the vegetables slightly: the kids julienned zucchini and carrots and sautéed them with them red pepper.)

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PEANUT NOODLES WITH SHRIMP

Serves 6

2 tablespoons canola oil, divided

4 teaspoons minced ginger

3 cloves garlic, minced

¼ cup low sodium soy sauce

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

½ cup natural style peanut butter

1 cup lower sodium nonfat chicken broth

½ teaspoon salt

12 ounces linguine

2 red peppers, cut in thin strips

1 medium zucchini, cut in thin strips

2 carrots, shredded with a vegetable peeler

1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and de-veined

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

  1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a medium saucepan. Add the ginger and garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, or until softened. Add the soy sauce, rice vinegar, peanut butter, chicken broth and salt and cook, stirring, until the peanut butter is dissolved. Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 7 minutes, or until thick and smooth.
  2. Meanwhile, cook the linguine in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until al dente. Just before draining, add the red pepper, zucchini and carrots to the pasta. Drain and toss with the sauce.
  3. Toss shrimp with the red pepper flakes.
  4. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of canola oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium high. Add the shrimp and cook 2 minutes per side, or until pink.
  5. Combine the shrimp with the pasta and toss thoroughly.

c. Marge Perry

*Anyone out there have an extra oven hanging around?

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Ginger

January 23, 2013

It has been one year since my mother suddenly and horrifically died. One year on January 22nd. I want to have something worthy of the occasion to write; something profoundly important and insightful, or perhaps inspiring. I want to tell you the year was long or short or that I had a deeply meaningful spiritual revelation.

Nada.

I was just sad a lot. I was sad with, but grateful for, my sisters and my Dad. I was grateful for my husband and children and for two gentle friends who kept reassuring me it was alright to be sad for as long as I needed. After a while I was also grateful for my work, which held my focus away from what had happened and away from my sadness for increasing amounts of time as the months passed.

Twelve months now.

But even work couldn’t always prevent it all from slipping in, and sometimes work made it come tumbling over me like rocks falling down a mountain, and I crumbled beneath the bruising weight. Ginger set off many such avalanches. Ginger, which I love in its own right, and also because my mother did.

My mother was like ginger: spicy, sassy and nuanced.

A long time ago, I was going to visit my parents and my mother had been sick. (Regular sick, not life-threatening sick. That seems like something you need to clarify when someone has died.) I created these ginger cookies and brought them to her in a pretty tin, layered in ivory-colored tissue paper.

She told me she liked them a lot. I know she did: she would have liked them even if they were a little dry or too chewy or not gingery enough or too sweet. My mother would have genuinely liked them anyway, simply because I made them for her.

If you have a mother like that, go tell her you love her.

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Jane’s Ginger Cookies

1 1/3 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup chopped crystallized ginger

4 tablespoons butter

1 large egg

3 tablespoons molasses

1/2 cup dark brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1. Combine the flour, baking soda, ground ginger, and crystallized ginger in a bowl.

2. Mix the butter, egg, molasses and brown sugar with an electric mixer. Add the dry ingredients and mix until just blended. (Do not overwork the batter.). Cover dough in plastic wrap and chill two hours.

3. Preheat the oven to 350f and coat two baking sheet pans with cooking spray.

4. Place a bowl of cold water next to you. Place another bowl with the granulated sugar on your other side. Dampen your hands in the water and for a 1-inch ball of dough; roll it in the sugar and place on the baking sheet. Continue the process, making a total of 28 cookies.

5. Bake 18 minutes, rotating the two pans top to bottom and front to back halfway through. Remove from the pan and cool on a wire rack.

Makes 28 cookies

Note: for a crisper, larger cookie, flatten the balls to a 2-inch wide disk prior to baking.

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