In the dark, cool morning, guided by the faint light that hints of imminent dawn, my father and I make our way down the main street of Luang Prabang in Laos.
We are not alone. Tourists and locals line up along the side of the road, sitting barefoot on woven mats and low stools, arms encircled around small covered baskets of sticky rice. We are here to partake in Tak Bat, the serene morning ritual of giving alms, mostly in the form of sticky rice, to the monks. In this daily ritual, saffron-robed monks walk single file in age order from their monasteries through the community in a meditative procession. They –- and we—do not speak as we use our fingers to place golf-size balls of sticky rice in the lidded vessel each monk carries.
This is not charity. It is considered an honor and blessing to give the monks rice. It is not kindness; it is larger and more soulful than compassion. The monks provide the community with divine support; the community supports the monks with nourishment. The offering is an act of connecting with the spiritual world and of opening one’s heart to the needs of others.
I am struck by so many bare hands touching the monks’ food. My American mind is uncomfortable with the hygiene. Some participants have placed currency in the monks’ vessels, right there with the rice. I begin to wonder if the monks truly eat this rice when the call of a bird in the distance brings me back to the present, to the monks slowly making their way past me. I realize I have left the lid off my basket while thinking too hard about this, and the rice—the monk’s rice—is getting cold.
The youngest monk passes by; I have a little break now. We—the people seated in my immediate area and I—have paid homage to one whole temple, about twenty monks. I see another temple making their way towards us. The sky is getting lighter; the crowd generates a soft hum of conversation; a dog runs by.
The next procession of monks is here; the hush returns. I place a glob of rice in a vessel; the chisel-faced monk does not make eye contact. I do it for the next monk, and the next.
I refrain from doing so, but I ache to say thank you.
Sounds like such an amazing experience – made all the more special because you were with your father.
It is true– sharing experiences like this with him make them even more special
So touching and so moving, how lucky you are and blessed to share this experience with your dad…
Your photos share more than a thousand words. Very much look forward to talk with you when you return and hear greater details. Safe travels and cherish every moment.
What amazing experiences you have had with your Dad…and BTW Nice pedicure Marge!
Loved this. Very touching. Nicely done
Another amazing travel adventure with Dad! Marge, this picture reminds me of the one you posted sharing a meal with your Dad at the Sikh temple in New Delhi, India! Food and Spirituality….. Your openness to embrace, accept and learn from different cultures is so heart warming!
Safe travels and cannot wait to read more about the food and culture of Laos! Cambodia and Veitnam on the agenda too?
Ameeta,
This photo also reminded me of the photo from the Sikh temple– one of my all time favorites. We went first to Vietnam (I am writing about the foods of Vietnam for a travel piece) and Cambodia, then ended the trip in Laos. The food in Vietnam was beautiful– to the eyes and the palate. And the people were wonderful. We had fantastic adventures there (like zipping around Saigon on the back of two Vespas!) and saw wonderful sights (Floating villages in Halong Bay, where huge karsts rise out of the water for what seems like no good reason!) I didn’t get to know Cambodia well– we had one incredible day photographing Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, but that evening I got ill, and spent the next couple of days in bed. My father was a trooper– he got me medical attention, changed our flights and subsequent arrangements and, despite my protestations, caught up on work at the hotel rather than venturing out. And then we were on to Laos…
I loved the trip so much I’ve been talking to my husband about the two of us going back at the end of the year to celebrate our anniversary!
I love this and would totally be thinking (shamefully) the same hygiene-related thoughts. Also, grandpa looks great in that photo.