Marge Perry’s A Sweet and Savory Life

Aloha, Diet!

January 19, 2013

I know– it’s my own fault. But it was worth it.

I just returned from a wonderful week in Maui with my husband, children (they are still my children, even if they are legally adults) and father. When I look out my office window at slushy snow under dismal skies, I close my eyes and see spinner dolphins leap and turn — just because they can; my son stumble from the sea, exhausted but triumphant after a day of surfing; my daughter’s sun-kissed face glowing in the candlelight of Mama’s Fish House, where we celebrated her brand new graduate school degree; my Dad in his lai, hamming it up for my camera; and my husband’s sweet face, so close to mine I can hear his breath, as we stand hand in hand watching the sun set over the water.

In addition to these treasured memories, I seem to have brought home a couple of new pounds around my middle. Apparently, that is what happens when you drink an extra glass of wine every night and keep sticking your fork in everyone’s desserts.

So now it is time for me to lose those new pounds, along with a few old ones that have been hanging around too long. To do so, I turn to the one time-proven method that truly aids weight loss. Seriously, no matter what your eating plan– low carb, low fat, paleo, high protein, Weight Watchers or any of the gazillion other diets out there– this one thing has been proven to be more effective than almost any other: keep a food diary. Record every morsel that goes in your mouth. For me, that includes all those tiny spoonfuls we taste as we develop recipes, because they add up. I am using an app called LoseIt! and tracking calories. Ebo, who also put on a few, is using the Men’s Weight Watcher’s plan, so he has to count points. Either way, we are completely accountable for every thing that goes in our mouths. And that makes you think a whole lot about what you are eating– much more than if you were to follow a diet but not log what you eat, because then it is easy to dismiss the little tastes of this and that.

This Pasta Fagioli is a great dish when you want to lose weight. A bowl has only 279 calories, and it is hearty enough to feel like a meal. I can keep portion size containers of it in the freezer and microwave it for lunch. A bowl of the soup and a salad full of crunchy chopped vegetables makes a satisfying dinner– one I will count on to help banish those new pounds before my tan fades.

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Pasta Fagioli

The soup thickens as it stands: add water or broth as needed.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup chopped red onion

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 teaspoon dried crushed rosemary

2 carrots, chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

4 cups low sodium vegetable or chicken broth

1 14.5 ounce can diced tomato with basil, garlic and oregano

1 cup (about 5 1/2 ounces) orzo pasta

2 15-ounce cans lower sodium cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup grated or shaved parmesan

1. Heat the oil in a soup pot set over medium high. Add the onion, garlic and rosemary, and cook, stirring often, 1 minute until garlic is slightly softened. Add the carrots and celery and cook until somewhat softened, about 4 minutes.

2. Add the broth and tomatoes and bring to a boil. Stir in the pasta and cook until al dente, about 8-9 minutes. Stir in the beans, cook 1 minute to heat through, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Top each bowl with grated or shaved parmesan.

Makes 6 servings

Nutritional analysis for each serving: 279 calories, 12 g protein, 49 g carbohydrates, 10 g fiber, 4 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 398 mg sodium

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Kasu Salmon: A 1980′s Starlet Revisited in Honor of a Friend

January 2, 2013

It was our friend Andy’s 60th birthday, and we conspired with his wife, Viv, to throw him a surprise party. Many bumps in the surprise-party-road later, Andy walked through our front door grinning ear to ear from the sight of this many great friends and family who had come to celebrate with him.

Viv, Ebo and I designed a menu based on dishes of ours that Andy particularly likes. Some of the recipes for the dishes we served (or dishes very similar to those we served– sometimes we can’t help ourselves and tweak things a bit) are already on this site: click highlighted menu items to link to the recipes. Just below the party menu is a description of and recipe for Kasu Salmon, which is shown in the photo above. Scroll below the recipe for fun step-by-step photos of Andy’s birthday cake.

Hors D’oeuvres

Ebo’s Top Secret*, Best-in-the-Universe Onion Dip with chips and crudité

Spanish Tortilla (a frittata-like dish layered with potatoes)

Pulled Pork (in Coca-Cola Barbecue Sauce) Sliders

Shrimp with Green Chimichurri

Main Course

Kasu Salmon (see below)

Marinated Beef Tenderloin

Grilled Deconstructed Caesar

Green Beans with Balsamic Glazed Onions

Rosemary Roasted Baby Purple, New and Fingerling Potatoes

Roast Asparagus with Balsamic Drizzle

Desserts

Fruit Salad with Honey Lime Dressing

Cupcakes (which Viv procured)

Old-Fashioned Icebox Cake (see below)

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Kasu Salmon

In the 1980′s when Japanese food suddenly became wildly popular in the US, Kasu Salmon appeared on the scene in a few restaurants (mostly on the West coast) and then, finally, in the pages of the New York Times. It seemed like the dish had It Girl potential…but somehow, it didn’t live up to it’s early signs of beloved-ness and faded out like a forgotten movie starlet.

One of the reasons for its short-lived popularity may be that in the 1980s it was still too difficult to get an ingredient that is essential to the dish: kasu, a.k.a sake lees. Now that Asian markets are commonplace in much of the country, the ingredient is more accessible and the dish is a mature and sophisticated star whose performance is heralded by all.

The recipe below serves 8 as a main dish; you can cut the pieces smaller to serve as an appetizer. Kasu Salmon is equally delicious served warm or at room temperature and can even be cooked up to a day ahead if necessary. (I prefer cooking it the same day; all the work is already done.)

1/3 cup sake

1/2 cup sake lees/kasu

1/3 cup white miso

1 1/2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1 3-pound side of salmon, skin and small bones removed

1/4 cup white sesame seeds

1/4 cup black sesame seeds

1. Heat the sake in a small skillet over medium high. Tilt the skillet slightly to one side and use a long-necked lighter (or long match) to ignite it. Gently swirl the skillet until the flames go out, about 30-45 seconds. Pour the sake in to the food processor; add the sake lees/kasu, miso, sugar and soy sauce and process until it forms a thick but spreadable paste.

2. Line a shallow baking sheet pan with plastic wrap; place the salmon on top and spread the mixture evenly over the entire (top and bottom) surface. Cover with more plastic wrap and refrigerate 24 to 48 hours.

3. When you are ready to cook the salmon, preheat the oven to 425 and coat a clean baking sheet pan with cooking spray.

4. Unwrap the fish and use paper towels to wipe off the marinade. Cut the fish into individual portions and arrange on the baking sheet, taking care to leave room in between the pieces. Sprinkle half of each piece with white sesame seeds and the other half with black sesame seeds. Place in the center of the oven and roast 8 minutes, or until salmon is just cooked through.

Makes 8 servings (as a main course)

Nutritional analysis per serving: 370 calories, 41 g protein, 8 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 17 g fat, 2 g saturated fat,620 mg sodium Please note: The nutrition numbers are only an estimate. Most of the marinade is removed prior to cooking and serving, so the calories may actually be lower than these numbers.

By the way, Viv is a very accomplished baker who couldn’t make a cake for Andy without ruining the attempted surprise. That is why she bought the cupcakes, and why I didn’t dare attempt to make his favorite cake: only Viv can do that. But since a birthday needs a cake, I put together the cake pictured below to celebrate the occasion. Its a classic back-of-the-box Icebox Cake made with Nabisco wafers, shaped into a giant 60 and decorated with gold drageés. Those drageés are proof again of the power of accessories to dress up a basic.

First you spread sweetened whipped cream on a chocolate wafer, top it with another chocolate wafer, spread that one with more whipped cream…and repeat this process until you have a couple of inches done. At that point, stand the multi decker sandwich on it’s side and repeat, curving the ever-growing caterpillar to form your number or letter (or any other shape).

Keep going until your number/letter/shape is completely formed.

Spread the outside with more whipped cream. (After all, you can never have too much whipped cream.)

Time to decorate…

Celebrate!

* Top Secret means we don’t share or sell this recipe. Really.

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BLT Bruschetta: An Appetizer So Fast and Easy to Make, and So Universally Beloved*, It Feels Like a Cheat

December 28, 2012

*When I say “universally” beloved, I’m not including vegans. (Unless they use fake bacon, but I always wonder why a vegan would want to eat food processed to imitate meat.)

This is one of those dishes you serve to company– and watch as they gobble it up faster than you can get it out on platters– and you feel like a cheat. It is just so obvious and easy. It’s also a great reminder that food needn’t require oh-so-special ingredients or be difficult to make in order to taste really great.

Sometimes a fancy name helps, though, so let’s call these cute little open-faced BLTs ”bruschetta” and we’ll all feel quite hip as we scarf ‘em down.

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BLT Bruschetta

These are also delicious with a thin slice of avocado under the bacon.

6 slices bacon, cut across in half

12 slices baguette (about 6 ounces)

3 plum tomatoes, cut in ¼-inch thick slices

1/2 cup baby arugula

1 tablespoon mayonnaise

Cook the bacon, reserving the bacon fat. Drain on a plate lined with paper towel.
Brush the top of each slice of bread lightly with the reserved bacon fat. Toast under the broiler or in a toaster oven until lightly golden, about 2 minutes. Top each with a tomato slice; toast 1 minute to slightly soften the tomato.
Place lettuce on top of each tomato; top with bacon and a pea-sized dollop of mayonnaise.

Makes 12 servings

Nutritional analysis for each serving: 83 calories, 4 g protein, 10 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 3 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 207 mg sodium

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Goat Cheese Tartlets with Fig-Balsamic Drizzle: A Fast and Easy Appetizer

December 27, 2012

These delectable looking little bites are your surest route to party hero-dom.* Your friends will rave about your culinary prowess and your mayor may present you with the key to the city. Only you need know they took less than 30 minutes to whip up.

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Goat Cheese Tartlets with Fig-Balsamic Sauce

1 7.05-ounce refrigerated pie crust dough (such as Pillsbury)

1/4 cup room temperature cream cheese

1/3 cup room temperature goat cheese

¼ cup fig preserves

2 teaspoons balsamic

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Lightly butter a 12-cup mini-muffin cup pan.

2. Lightly flour your work surface and unroll the pie crust dough. Use a 2-inch straight or fluted-edged cookie cutter to cut 12 circles. Fit each circle into a mini-muffin cup, folding the edges up to form sides. Bake 10 minutes or until crusts are golden and cooked through. Let cool.

3. Stir cream cheese and goat cheese together until well-blended. Combine fig preserves, balsamic and black pepper in a separate bowl.

4. Spoon a mound of the cheese mixture into the cooled tartlet shells; drizzle with the fig sauce.

Makes 12 tartlets

Nutritional analysis for each tartlet: 105 calories, 2 g protein, 10 g carbohydrates, 0 g fiber, 7 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 109 mg sodium

*Neon spandex tights are not required

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How to Cook Rack of Lamb

December 24, 2012

Tender, juicy racks of lamb, cooked to perfection, are truly a holiday-worthy treat. How fortunate, then, that they are relatively easy to prepare and make such a stunning statement!

Racks may have seven or eight chops (ribs), but can vary greatly in size. Small racks– those that are just a wink over a pound each– are lovely to serve as individual chops (sometimes referred to as lollipop chops) for an appetizer or passed hors d’oeuvres. Racks that weigh 1 1/2 to 2 pounds each are more suitable for a main course; each rack this size will feed 3-4 people.

When you buy the lamb, ask the butcher to “french” the racks. That means the rib bones are scraped clean, which makes the rack look elegant and dressy.

There is only one key to cooking racks of lamb to perfection: temperature. They are at their most tender and juicy at medium rare; take them out of the oven as soon as they hit 125 degrees. (The temperature will go up about another 5 degrees by the time they are served). To take the temperature, simple insert an instant read meat thermometer right through the center of the chops, parallel to the counter.

One of the great things about serving racks of lamb is how easy they make the timing. Two racks will take about 22-26 minutes (and then rest 5 minutes): that means you can put the rack in just before you ask everyone to sit down for the first course and they will be ready right on cue.

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Roast Racks of Lamb

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

4 garlic cloves, finely minced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

2 (1 3/4-pound) racks of lamb, 8 chops each

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon black pepper

1. Combine the oil, mustard, garlic, rosemary and thyme. Pat evenly over the meaty part of the chops. Allow the racks to stand 30 minutes at room temperature. Season evenly with the salt and pepper.

2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Coat a shallow baking pan with cooking spray. Place one rack with the bones facing up and the meaty part of the chop facing outward on the pan. Lean the second rack on the first, again with the meatiest part of the chops facing outward. Alternate the bones from each rack to interlace them. Roast 22-26 minutes, until ta meat thermometer inserted through the center of the chops (parallel to the counter) registers 125 (for medium rare). Allow to rest 5 minutes before cutting into chops. (The temperature will rise another 5 degrees).

Makes 6-8 servings

Nutritional analysis for each serving (2 chops, 8 servings): 367 calories, 29 g protein, 1 g carbohydrates, 0 g fiber, 26 g fat, 11 g saturated fat, 424 mg sodium

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Holiday Gift Guide for Food Lovers

December 17, 2012

Limited Reserve California Olive Ranch Extra Virgin Olive Oil

California olive oil is the new Tuscany olive oil. Run, don’t walk, to get your bottle of Limited Reserve California Olive Ranch Extra Virgin olive oil. Get two bottles of this award winning, sustainably grown olive oil, because one is for a gift. $17.97/bottle

Wellfleet Sea Salt

Okay, everyone knows the coolest food product you can have is artisinal sea salt. Now imagine that salt has a really great story behind it about two college kids who decided to harvest sea salt using sustainable practices, and who won a business competition in their junior year of college which gave them the seed money, and who grew the business despite being full-time college students… and now imagine one of those incredible kids is mine. Bingo! (And, imagine how hard it was to refrain from starting this post by showcasing the salt.)

This great tasting salt is harvested on barges Zak and Hope designed and built themselves. Every grain is harvested, sun-evaporated and bottled by hand in Cape Cod. $8.00 each. But feel free to buy many jars: you can never have too much superb sea salt, and it makes a great host gift. (And by the way, if you think I am being too Mommy-pushy, I would like to point out again that I did not lead this post with Wellfleet Sea Salt.)

Knock-Knock Foodie Flash Cards

And just how did my son get smart enough about food to start his own food business? Why, Foodie Flash Cards, of course! (Well, not really. He grew up in a household with two parents in the food business.)

If you can understand and visualize the statement, “The onion foam on the deconstructed burger is just so Ferran Andria”, you may not need these flash cards to keep up with your hipster friends. They know that molecular gastronomy is so last year, but someone on your gift list might not… $10.20

Foodie Fight Trivia Game

For the competitive foodie on your list, Foodie Fight, a trivia game, might be just the ticket. Will the know-it-all in your life know the answer to such questions as “Who shed her shoes and a White House job, and bought a tiny specialty food store– eventually cinching cookbook deals and a Food Network Gig?” Put it to the test, for just $15.61

Back to the Roots Mushroom Growing Kit

For the more laid back food lover, these two grow-your-own kits let you watch culinary magic happen right before your very eyes. We first discovered the Back to the Roots Mushroom Kit when my daughter Rachel gave one to Ebo last year for the holiday. Every morning, we came down to discover new mushroom growth– all from a nicely contained box on the kitchen window sill. Some people grow wildly weird shapes, and sometimes the boxes don’t produce much at all– it is all part of the fun. The inventors of the mushroom kit gave a great TEDx talk, by the way, that is worth listening to. $19.95

Edamame Growing Kit

This japanese-made kit includes everything you need to grow your very own edamame right on a sunny windowsill. The beer glass you see pictured is actually your growing pot. I suppose since edamame is a traditional bar snack,it seemed fitting… $16.00 from the great website Uncommon Goods.

Institute of Culinary Education Gift Certificate

For the person on your list who would rather cook-his-own than grow it, a gift certificate for ICE allows him or her to take any of the hundreds of classes offered. I would like to think your gift recipient would rather take mine than any other class offered, of course (!) …but I recognize my classes may not jibe with his or her schedule. (Okay, or interests.) Gift certificates start at $100.

I’ll wrap up with just two cheesy suggestions.

Cheese Paper

Every year at Christmas, my brother-in-law Frank gets an amazing array of cheeses from DiBruno Bothers in Philadelphia. By the time dinner rolls around (dinner that Ebo and I happily cook), I have stuffed myself silly on cheese. Frank introduced me to one of my favorite cheese, Ossau-Iraty, and has often encouraged us to take home leftovers. (One of the things that makes him such a good b-i-l). He also introduced us to cheese paper, which helps keep cheese in good condition in your home fridge. It is $7.95 a box and a box will fit perfectly nicely in an average sized cheese freak’s stocking. (Would it be piggy to stick a box in his stocking?)

Cheese Tiles

For the host or hostess who often serves cheese, this is a really nifty gift. You write the name of the cheese you’re serving right on the tile with a dry erase pen, so diners know what they’re cutting in to. It’s that or sticky notes for me.

And now, two cookbooks for cookbook lovers…

(Both happen to be written by friends, but I happen to have some really talented, award-winning friends.)

Stir Frying to the Sky’s Edge:

Grace Young won the 2011 James beard award for International Cooking for this book (and won for some of her past books, as well.) This is a spectacular book that will enable tyou to master the art of wok cookery, because, as Grace writes, The old expression: “One wok runs to the sky’s edge” means “one who uses the wok becomes master of the cooking world.” And as the wok user becomes master of the cooking world, so does he become master of the stir-fry, one of the greatest techniques of Chinese cookery.

Ready for Dessert

David Lebovitz, author of many cookbooks, Chez Panisse alum, and creator of his eponymous and wildly successful blog that I just love to read, is as good a writer as he is a pastry chef. That is a rare and invaluable combination. David has a wonderful sense of humor and a lovely way of simplifying complicated desserts for the home cook. This book is a must for anyone who loves to bake.

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Holiday Gift Guide for Food Lovers: Kitchen Tools

December 8, 2012

This is a list of just a few kitchen tools I wouldn’t want to be without and/or that I think make great gifts. Some are little stocking stuffers or perfect for Secret Santas, and others are for a more special (read: expensive) gift.

Good Cookie Spatula

This is the gift that gives twice. I hope every single one of you will stick it in at least one person’s stocking, give it as a Secret Santa gift, or pair it with cookie sheet pan for the baker in your life. Fifty percent of the proceeds from the OXO Good Cookie Spatula go to pediatric cancer research, through the organization Cookies for Kids Cancer, a non-profit group dedicated to raising funds for pediatric cancer research. I have a deep personal involvement with this group (I was involved from the inception) and can tell you they will truly help save kids lives. Buy a spatula, which everyone can use, and Be a Good Cookie

Thermapen

This is one of the most expensive thermometers out there– and it is worth every penny. It is instant and accurate– which buys the cook confidence and piece of mind. And isn’t that priceless?

Microplane

On the other end of the price spectrum is the microplane. We use ours nearly daily to grate lemon zest. When you grate lemon zest, by the way, don’t just grate the amount you need– zest the whole fruit and stick the extra in the freezer in 1-teaspoon portions. (Place it on little squares of plastic wrap, pull up the corners like a beggar’s purse and secure with a twist-tie.) A microplane is also ideal for grating cheese, nutmeg and shaving chocolate. And it is dishwasher safe.

Food Scale

More and more recipes are calling for weights instead of cup measures because it is more accurate. (This is especially true for baking). But there are also a million other reasons to have a kitchen scale, like when a recipe calls for 1 1/2 pounds of potatoes or 8 ounces of grated cheese. I like that this scale lies flat in my drawer.

Mandoline

This is the tool you use to get perfectly even, thin slices of potatoes, carrots, peppers, onions and lots of other stuff. If you want to get really fancy, you can even make gaufrettes, the waffle-cut potato chips. But mostly, you can use it to make piles of caramelized onion , which is as crucial to cooking as bacon and butter.

Immersion Blender

This inexpensive gadget not only fits nicely in a stocking, it comes in handy for all kinds of tasks when you just don’t feel like pulling out the food processor. Stick it in a pot of cooked carrots or squash to make soup, puree some of those black beans to thicken the filling for enchiladas, or most famously, make baby food. My babies are grown, but I still love my immersion blender.

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How to Make Latkes (with Do-Ahead Tips)

December 7, 2012

While there are slight variations from recipe to recipe, the basic idea behind making latkes is pretty much the same: grate potatoes, add egg and flour or matzah meal and fry the patties in oil.

You can add grated apple, zucchini, sweet potato, parsnip or carrot to the grated potato (or a whole lot of other fruits and vegetables), but the idea is still the same. The big debate is usually how fine to grate the potato: I prefer shredded, though some like the more dense latke that comes from finely grated potato.

The question I am asked more than any other when it comes to latkes is: How can I make them ahead?

The absolute purist would say you can’t. And I agree (as would anyone, I am sure!) that a latke is at its best just out of the fry pan. But frying is messy and requires the cook’s complete attention– which means you can’t enjoy a room full of latke-eaters if you’re the cook. (Also, if you dress at all nicely for the room full of latke-eaters, you are bound to get oil splatters on your nice sweater.)

There are a few ways around all this. First, you can do what I did and marry a man who will fry the latkes while you host the party. Or, you can grate the potatoes hours ahead and store them submerged in water in the refrigerator. Drain them well and make the batter up to two hours ahead. (It doesn’t matter if it discolors– when you fry them the latkes turn a beautiful golden brown). Fry the latkes no more than an hour or two ahead of serving. You can warm them by placing the latkes in a single layer on a sheet pan in a very low (200 F) oven. If they stay there too long, they will no longer be as crisp, but they will still be very appealing. The proof is that they will disappear from the platters as quickly as you can set them out.

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Latkes

Some of my favorite variations include: substitute 1 pound of potatoes with 1 pound of sweet potatoes; grate 2 unpeeled Gala apples with the potatoes and add a pinch of cinnamon to the batter; replace 1 pound of potatoes with 8 ounces zucchini and 8 ounces carrots for very pretty and equally tasty latkes.

2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled

1 medium onion (about 3 inches in diameter), peeled

2 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup flour

10 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

1. Cut the potatoes and onion lengthwise in pieces that fit through the chute of the food processor. Using the shredding blade, grate the vegetables together.

2. Beat the eggs lightly with a fork in a large bowl. Add the shredded vegetables, salt and flour and toss well.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Use a 1/3-cup measure to scoop shredded potato mixture into 5 patties in pan, spreading each to about 3 inches in diameter. Cook until golden brown on undersides, about 3 to 4 minutes; turn and cook until again golden brown, about another 3 minutes. Repeat, adding no more than 2 tablespoons of oil for each batch, until all the potato mixture is cooked.

Makes 8 servings (24 latkes).

Nutritional analysis per serving (3 latkes): 277 calories, 4 g protein, 24 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 19 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 334 mg sodium

{ 6 comments }

Gift Guide for Food Lovers: Pots and Pans

December 2, 2012

Buying pots and pans can be tricky. Department store circulars scream out all kinds of special sets — 37 pieces for just $199.99!– and every brand has different product lines to choose from.

My recommendations are based on our experience with a whole lot of different brands, constructions, sizes, shapes– and most importantly with a whole lot of cooking. David and I are like crash test dummies for home cooking equipment: we make more dinners in a day than most people do in a couple of weeks. Over the years, many companies have sent us their pots and pans– here are the ones we choose to abuse use most often at home.

I often get emails from friends and readers asking me about buying sets of pots and pans that are deeply discounted. As nice as they look in the cabinet, all matchy and lovely, I don’t normally recommend buying pots and pans this way, unless the set has the exact pieces you really need. Very often, the set is close but not quite, and you end up paying for pieces you won’t use and not getting the one size you really need. Having said that, right now Anolon is running a special on their web site (30% off and free shipping with code CHEER2012) and offering a set with all the right parts. I’ll get to that shortly. First, here are the individual pieces I think you really need.

12-inch nonstick skillet

This is the workhorse of the kitchen, the pan you will use to make dinner on most nights. This is the size skillet you need in order to saute one to one and a half pounds of chicken, fish or meat (enough for a family of four). We use Anolon Nouvelle Copper because it conducts heat evenly (thanks in part to the invisible copper layer) and has an unbelievably tough “hard anodized” nonstick surface. (After a couple of years of abuse, the surface of our go-to 12-incher looks the same as when we bought it.) The company says you can even use metal utensils on it, but we don’t. It is oven safe up to 500F. It is currently $69.99 (usually $99) with the code CHEER2012: click here.

8-inch nonstick skillet

For omelets, crepes and single grilled cheese sandwiches, we use this 8-inch nonstick skillet. It is shaped just like the 12-inch. It is currently $27.99 (usually $39.99) with the code CHEER2012: click here.

It is worth noting that the company is also offering a special twin-pack of an 8-inch and 10-inch Nouvelle Copper skillet (normally $49.99 for both) for $34.99 with the code CHEER 21012. But a 10-inch will not replace a 12-inch: buy this set in addition to the 12-inch only because for $7 more you get an extra pan you will use once in a while.

8-quart stockpot

You don’t need a nonstick surface to boil pasta and make soup– you need this handsome 8-quart stock pot pictured above, or the equally pretty 8.25 quart stock pot in the Nouvelle Copper line. Don’t scrimp on a stockpot: a cheap pot will burn the all the parts of your soup that fall to the bottom and leave the floating veggies crunchily uncooked. Buy a good stockpot once in your life and you will use it forever and ever. Here is a link to the pot pictured above, which is currently $98 (down from $140). The piece from the Nouvelle Copper line, currently $69.99 (normally $99.99), is here. There is nothing wrong with getting a nonstick stockpot, if that is what comes in a set, but I don’t see any reason to pay extra (nonstick is more expensive) when buying individual pieces.

3- or 4-quart sauce pot

This is the pot in which you will cook rice, hard boil eggs and make certain kinds of sauces. This is a must-have in the kitchen. Again, this needn’t be nonstick, but there is no harm if it is. This one is normally $85 and currently $59.50 with the CHEER2012 code.

Braiser

I have loved my Le Creuset 3 1/2 quart braiser for 25 a lot of years. I use this size to make brisket, stew, and the like. (In our house, there is a pavlovian response to his pan: when I take it out, my daughter will say, “Oh! Are you making brisket?!”) It is very heavy, which is a plus or minus depending on your point of view. The enamel coated cast iron retains heat beautifully– ideal for slow-cooking. While it is easy to clean and keep clean, you should treat it gently and avoid harsh abrasives. I don’t use this piece as often as I use the ones discussed above, but when I need it, it is invaluable. You can use this shape in recipes calling for a Dutch oven. A Dutch oven is basically the same thing, although with higher sides, which matters if you are making something that has much more liquid. I have not yet ever needed this pot to be deeper– for those purposes I have an 8-quart stockpot. This very expensive pot comes in gorgeous colors, by the way. The classics are (Marseille) blue and (cherry) red. Amazon is currently listing this for $229.95.

Pots and Pans Set

As I mentioned above, I rarely find sets that include what I consider to be the essential pieces for the home cook. Often, there are sizes you don’t need, but the set is missing that one essential– like a 12-inch skillet or a stockpot. But this set of Anolon Nouvelle Copper cookware, which is currently $279.99 (and free shipping) with the code CHEER2012, includes the 3-quart saucepan, 8 quart stockpot, 8.5-inch and 12-inch skillets and a bonus 4-quart sauce pot. This is the one (rare!) set I would recommend, if it is within your budget.

I am happy to answer questions about other lines of cookware or other budget levels if I can. I am certainly not an expert on every kind of cookware out there, but I know my way around a few. You may write in on the comments below or, if you need to keep it on the down low until after the holidays, use my contact form.

In the coming weeks, I will be doing several more gift guides (including knives, tools, and fun food-related items). If you are looking for ideas in other categories, just let me know and I will do my best to include them.

Happy shopping!

Please note: I do not benefit directly if you purchase any of the above (although I think I might get pennies if you order through a link I provide to Amazon), but I do have long-standing relationships with some of the companies included in my gift guides. Those relationships always– every single time– developed because I am a fan of the product, not because the company approached me to represent them.

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Whipped Sweet Potatoes with Pecan Streusel Topping

November 21, 2012

This is the dish my family asks me to make for Thanksgiving. It is sweet but not heavy; the potatoes are light and fluffy, thanks to whipped egg whites, and the topping is crunchy, nutty and sweet– but not cloying. Do everything up to step #4 today: tomorrow morning, beat the egg whites and combine with the filling, assemble the dish and put it in the oven to bake when the turkey comes out to rest.

Note: After you cook the potatoes, store them in the baking dish in which they will bake, cover and refrigerate. (Be sure to coat the baking dish with cooking spray first). Chances are the baking dish is easier to fit in the fridge than a big bowl, and there is no reason to wash it in between. Combine the potatoes with the egg whites tomorrow, transfer back to the baking dish, add the topping, and you are good to go.

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Whipped Sweet Potatoes with Pecan Streusel Topping

5 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch pieces

1/2 cup light brown sugar

2 teaspoons orange zest

1 tablespoon orange juice

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon salt

3 large egg whites

Streusel:

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut in bits

2/3 cup chopped pecans

Fill a large pot 3/4 of the way with water and add the potatoes. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 25 minutes, or until potatoes are very tender. Drain and puree in a food processor or blender until smooth. (You may have to work in batches). Combine the potatoes with the brown sugar, orange juice and zest, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg and salt.
Make the streusel topping: combine the brown sugar, flour, and cinnamon in a bowl and cut in the butter. Stir in the pecans and keep refrigerated until you’re ready to bake the casserole. The dish may be made up until this point, keeping the potatoes and topping separate, up to 2 days in advance.
Preheat the oven to 400F. Coat a 9 x 13 baking dish with cooking spray.
Just before baking, whip the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Stir 1/4 of the egg whites into the potatoes, then gently fold the remaining egg in. Transfer to the baking dish and top with the streusel. Bake 30 minutes, or until the top is lightly browned and a thermometer inserted in the center of the casserole registers 160F. (If your oven is hot and the topping is browning too quickly, coat a piece of foil with cooking spray and lie it loosely across the top of the dish.)

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